A Writer Visits the Venice Biennale: The Garden of Disorder

Posted on Sep 22, 2015

Four of us set off early in the morning to the Scuola Grande San Rocco to see the Tintorettos, stopping for breakfast en route at a small coffee shop. It’s all mirrors and gilt work and has an array of freshly baked pastries laid out on trays. Gondolier hats and ribbons and medals adorn the walls and bar area. The guidebook assures us the café is patronised by working gondoliers from early in the morning….

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The Art of Visiting Venice

Posted on Jul 25, 2015

My first sight of Venice is from the deck of a vapporetto heading for the Arsenale. It’s early May, spring turning to summer, and the sun still high in the late afternoon. Venice’s hallucinatory Adriatic sky reflects off the water, its light wavering on the fifty palazzis and seven churches of the Grand Canal, the Ducale and columns of the Basilica and the campanile of San Marco. It’s a Canaletto painting come to life, golden and luminous.

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